Three Common Wine Confusions

In my almost 5 decade of wine exploration journey, I have come across a few

confusions. But none took more time than the three below to clear up.

1. Montepulciano vs Montepulciano

A couple of weeks ago, one of the wine stores in the Calgary sent out an email

with the title: “Uncork the Magic of Montepulciano”. If it did not have an

accompanying picture of a bottle of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, I would not be

able to tell what they were selling. You see, Montepulciano can be a place or it

can be a grape. Four decades ago, when I was first interested in Italian wines, I

got caught in this confusion and it took me a little while to get the wine I wanted

in a restaurant.

Montepulciano is a village to the east of the Chianti region in Tuscany. The

predominate grape here is Sangiovese. The wine is known as Vino Nobile di

Montepulciano or its little brother, Rosso di Montepulciano. It is a very elegant

wine with quite an impressive complexity. Most people would appreciate and

hold it at the same level as a Chianti Classico. In a restaurant you can order it with

the full name or refer to it as Vino Nobile. But don’t just order a Montepulciano

or you would have an interesting conversation with the wait staff.

Montepulciano is also the name of a red grape grown mostly in the Abruzzi region

of Italy, to the south of Tuscany on the east coast of Italy. The resulting red wine

is known as Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. To make things more confusing, the

Montepulciano grape has been introduced to a lot of countries outside of Italy. A

lot of those wines are simply known as Montepulciano!

Both Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo are red wines

with high acidity; good food wines for pasta and various kinds of meat. Vino

Nobile is usually more complex and elegant with nuances of red fruit, cherries and

raspberry, but with hints of blue and black fruits, and very supple tannins.

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is usually more rustic, darker in colour with nuances of

darker fruits and much simpler in structure with less finesse. Vino Nobile usually

sells for a higher price at the level of Chianti Classico. But there is a bit of simple

characterization as I have come across Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, which was quite

elegant and cost up to over $80 a bottle.

2. Pouilly Fuisse vs Pouilly Fume

I guess Italy is not the only country that likes to make things confusing. Here is a

pair of French wines which confuse a lot of people.

Pouilly Fuisse is an AOC region in Burgundy in the sub-region of Maconnais, in the

southern part of Burgundy. The wines are made only from Chardonnay grapes. It

can be oak aged or not. The wines here are white Burgundies and some are even

classified as premier cru, but which usually sell at a more reasonable price than

premier cru white Burgundies from Beaune, north of here. It is one of my

favourite white Burgundy area for bargain hunting.

Pouilly Fume is an AOC in the Loire Valley, in the subregion of Pouilly-sur-Loire. It

lies on the other bank of the Loire River east of Sancerre. The wine here is white

and made 100% from Sauvignon Blanc. The wine is not oaked at all. It is

characterized as fresh and easy drinking wine but with quite a bit of complexity,

minerality and usually with a characteristic smoky hint. The Fume part of the

name came from the way Sauvignon Blanc matures, which skin turns into a

greyish bloom, locally known as white smoke and hence the name. Of course, it

can also be due to its characteristic smokiness hint in the wine.

To add to the confusion, the wine of Pouilly Fume is usually compared to wines

from Chablis, another white Burgundy made in northern part of Burgundy from

100% Chardonnay grapes and usually not oaked. Both are also my favourite

white wines.

3. Listrac vs Lirac

Another pair of confusing names from France!

Listrac is an AOC in the Medoc area of Bordeaux. It is predominantly red wine

made here from blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The

wines are characterized by complex aroma of blackberry, currant, licorice, sweet

spices and leather. When mature, they are well balanced, structured, with supple

tannins and very enjoyable. But when young, it can be a bit dry and austere.

Listrac is further up the hills and away from the Gironde River on the left bank.

There is no Cru Classe wine in Listrac. The wines are more affordable bargains

compared to those from its more famous neighbours of Margaux and Saint Julien.

Lirac is one of the 13 cru in the Cote du Rhone. It is neighbour to Tavel and across

the Rhone from Chateauneuf-du-Pape. It produces red, rose and white wines.

The reds are blends of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, and Carignan. Lirac

reds are known as the softer Cote du Rhone, but some ambitious wines can pass

for a Chateauneuf-du-Pape. The rose are similar in style to Tavel, the other

neighbour.